How can I make the colors in this photo better?

[jbrowning]

I don't know where this should have been put so I put it here. I am trying to figure out how to make the colors stand out more...ie like on the red of the head.

This is my edited version.


This is the unedited version.


Thanks
Jim

Oh and I use Photoshop Elements 6 and Photoshop 7.

[tcom]

I hope you do not mind, Jim. I downloaded the unedited version and tried under Photoshop CS4.

What I did:

- under Brightness/Contrast, I pushed both quite a bit without making it look too artificial
- under Vibrance, I pushed the saturation
- under Hue/Saturation, I pushed the saturation a bit further
- finally I applied a bit of smart sharpnening.

Here is the result:

[jbrowning]

That is no problem at all Tcom. I liked the way yours came out. I think mine has a tad too much contrast and dark areas. This was taken at about 11 am or noon with the sun out. I put the cameras wb on sunlight. I'm not sure if that was a mistake or not. I normally leave the wb in auto all the time.

thanks
Jim

[tcom]

I learned that when being unsure about the WB, it is better to take the photo in RAW, you will then be able at home to fix the WB on your PC in a RAW conversion software.

I agree that in your processing, you went a bit too far when increasing the contrast. I tried to tweak other settings to get out the colors, rather than just changing the contrast to try to keep it as natural as possible.

[francis lee]

Hi Jim,

This is my version of your pix. I have tweaked the colors & contrast & also cropped the original pix as I find it a tag too weak in terms of, composition. I would have shot it in portrait format for the 'deep space' kinda feel rather than a sweeping landscape format.

Environmental portraits says so much about your subject... be very criticial about choosing your space.

My 2 cts worth....

-francis

[calsan]

I think this is caused by haze.
Might need a filter on the lens - perhaps a polariser?

[Craig]

Nice photo!

[jbrowning]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Someone suggested a polarizer. Wouldn't that cut down on the red on the eyes and cut down on the f stops? I'm going back on Saturday and am wondering what I could have done differently.

Thanks
Jim

[Craig]

Jim,   You are correct about the amount of light that is lost.  By about 1-2 ƒ-stops I think.  But you will gain alot of color and knock down whatever haze thats in the air.  I've personaly used a polorizer while shooting Sandhill Cranes before, and can say it does help quite a bit.  This was with the DA*200 and a B+W circular polarizing filter.  They really help.


Craig

[Craig]

Jim,  Maybe I should add that Calsan deserves the credit for pointing this out.  He is so correct in suggesting the use of a CP.

[jbrowning]

Thanks Calsan and Ironshot. I will make sure my polarizer is clean for tomorrow. Since I will be shooting in the sunlight. Maybe the loss of 1 or 2 f-stops won't matter too much. I will up the ISO to about 400 and see what happens and clean the focus screen to see if I can get rid of the spot that is dead center and at the top of that picture.

Thanks
Jim

[Mike Pearson]

Craig,

Absolutely beautiful closeup.   

Mike

[spyglass]

Below is some information on Polarizer Filters, (found on the B&H Photo site)



LINEAR (SR)

Produces deeper colored blue skies, which at the same time creates a striking contrast with white clouds. Minimizes light reflections from glass and water Reduces glare from non-metallic surfaces. Provides a general color saturation to both cool and warm tones. Can be used in extremely bright light situations to reduce the amount of light entering the camera; this enables more selective depth of field control. Manufactured in self-rotating and drop-in formats. Note: using a Linear Polarizer on an auto focus camera with a beam-splitting meter will result in under-exposure of approximately 2-3 f:stops. Light is polarized by both the filter and the beam-splitting meter which results in double polarization. However, Linear Polarizers can be used with both non-auto focus and auto focus video cameras.
Light Loss: 2 f:stops

CIRCULAR POLARIZER

Provides the same filter effects as a Linear Polarizer, but is designed to work with auto focus cameras with beam splitting metering. The Circular Polarizer has linear polarizer construction plus a built-in "Wave Retardant" to ensure proper exposure. The linear element polarizes the light, and the wave retardant de-polarizes it, and then the beam-splitting meter polarizes the light again for proper exposure. The use of a Linear Polarizer with a beam-splitting meter will result in underexposure. Also used in video for video assist. (video tap).
Light Loss: 2 f:stops

ULTRA POLARIZER

Tiffen's most advanced polarizer. Provides a much greater effect than a standard linear polarizer. Causes deeper saturated colors, deeper blue skies, and a greater reduction of reflections. Available in Ultra Linear and Ultra Circular Polarizers.
Light Loss: 2 f:stops

WARM POLARIZER

Combines a polarizer and the exclusive Tiffen Warm 812 filter. Has all the polarizer effects along with those of the 812: warms the scene, eliminates excess blue caused by electronic flash, video lights, and shooting in outdoor open shade. Available in Warm Linear, Warm Ultra Linear, and Warm Ultra Circular Polarizer.
Light Loss: 2 f:stops

85 POLARIZER

Combines a Linear Polarizer and an 85 Color Conversion filter. Converts Type A film to daylight and adds a polarizing effect. Available in rotating and non-rotating mounts. Also available in 85 Ultra Linear Polarizer and 85 Ultra Circular Polarizer in non-rotating mounts.
Light Loss: 2 2/3 f:stop



POLARIZER TIPS

TIP #1:
How much a polarizer filter will darken a sky depends on the type of sky and your shooting angle in relation to the sun.

TIP #2:
On a sunny day, position your shoulder towards the sun and your subject at a right angle to your shoulder. When the sun is high in the sky, maximum polarization will result along the horizon. When the sun is low in the sky, maximum polarization will result in all areas in front of and behind you.

TIP #3:
A polarizer has very little effect when used under a gray, overcast sky.

TIP #4:
Remove any protective lens filters when using a polarizer.

TIP #5:
Use a polarizing filter indoors only for reducing relections and glare. Any color saturation will be minimal. Remember, a polarizer filter will effectively reduce your lens aperture by up to 2 f:stops.

TIP #6:
Combine an Ultra Polarizer and an 812 filter to obtain "Warm Polarizing" effects.

TIP #7:
Combine a polarizer with a Tiffen Enhancing filter for dramatic color saturation. The Enhancing filter provides deep saturation of warm tones, much greater than that achieved by a polarizer or a Warm 812 by themselves.

TIP #8:
Use a polarizer filter to control depth of field. This is similar to using a Neutral Density filter, except that the Neutral Density will render "neutral" colors, while the polarizer saturates colors. Neutral Density filters are available in greater light reducing densities than polarizers.

TIP #9:
To distinguish a Circular Polarizer from a Linear Polarizer, turn the filter backwards and look through it into a mirror. If the filter image in the mirror is black, you have a circular polarizer. If the image is clear, you have a linear polarizer.



Good Luck on your return to the location and have a great shoot!    Jbrowning   



Spyglass

[Piotr Baranski]

1min in PS

2nd Layer with multiply (opacity 80%) and mask with gradient (from top to bottom)
Unsharp mask (100/1,7/0)
Curves for more contrast

[Piotr Baranski]

BTW, to make landscape photo, I prefer neutral gradual filter. For example: Heliopan(Zeiss) Grad ND 0.6